Usually when I set out to do an exhaust system, I go thru all my old exhaust pipes for bends to add to straight sections of new material, or I order mandral bends and use all new pipe. If it's all new pipe, it usually goes pretty well, but if there are used sections to weld in, no matter how clean you think you get the pipes, the carbon in the pipes always fucks with your welding, especially if you are TIG-ing everything together. Plus, you have to run around or order your materials, and wait for it to come in.
I thought this time, for the pipes we're doing for Tommy's 113 ci S&S Evo, that I'd try one of Biltwell's exhaust pipe kits, and see exactly how much time, money, and materials I could save over the way I usually do it, and how well a kit with "pre-selected" sections would "fit in" in a strictly custom designed system.
Also, I'm going to show you a little of what I did to Tommy's frame, too. Tommy had a softail-style RHD frame for a 300 tire, and he didn't want a tire that wide anymore. He was going to buy a new frame, but I talked him into letting me narrow his frame down so he could run a 180/200 tire with LH chain drive.
I thought this time, for the pipes we're doing for Tommy's 113 ci S&S Evo, that I'd try one of Biltwell's exhaust pipe kits, and see exactly how much time, money, and materials I could save over the way I usually do it, and how well a kit with "pre-selected" sections would "fit in" in a strictly custom designed system.
Also, I'm going to show you a little of what I did to Tommy's frame, too. Tommy had a softail-style RHD frame for a 300 tire, and he didn't want a tire that wide anymore. He was going to buy a new frame, but I talked him into letting me narrow his frame down so he could run a 180/200 tire with LH chain drive.
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The kit is filled with some quality tubing, very little seam on the inside, and a true 16ga wall - no thick and thin sections. Also, the mandral bends are very uniform thru the radius, and the radiuses and the straight sections match up great. No real difference in tubing diameter between the straight sections and the bends, and that makes for a nice visual run when you're finished.
Also, in this picture, you can see from the arrows where I had to splice in new frame tubing to mate up the right axle block to the swing section, to get rid of the RHD offsets. The rear swingarm section now fits a 180/200 tire with LHD chain. And, in the circle, you can see where I cut out the big RHD offset out of the upright, and spliced in a 1 1/2" high x 1/2" thick flat filler plate to take it's place.
What did I find that I didn't like about the kit? Well.....if I was designing the kit, I'd drop the little fishtail ends out, and come up on that straight section of tubing 5", and put a 45 degree bend in each pipe instead. Why? Because there aren't any 45 degree bends in the kit, and I think people would rather have a couple 45's than the fishtails, especially if you were doing a pair of upsweeps. For example, a 45 degree bend section would be the perfect angle for bottom upsweep runs. Also, if you used the 45's in the headpipes, you could tuck them closer into the lower frame if you wanted, as another example.
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